Friday, October 29, 2021

Obituary of Jerry Francis Schimmel (San Francisco Chronicle)

 Jerry F. Schimmel

1933-2021

As a new householder 65 years ago at the crest of Bernal Heights, the young social worker found his one-of-a-kind San Francisco neighborhood to be an "interesting if haphazard mix of the poor, radical, colorful and oddball." Then came years of unwanted gentrification, hot real estate and the piecemeal disappearance of working-class families, minorities and most of the eccentrics.
By then he had adopted the perspective of a historical researcher.
"We have struggled," he said, "with the rising tide of neighborhood betterment."

Jerry Francis Schimmel died in his sleep in Pacifica on August 20. He was 88. His adult life had been invested in community activism, professional social work, and New Orleans jazz (stride piano, ragtime and banjo). In retirement, his greatest satisfactions came from the solitary thrills – as he put it – of investigating, writing, and self-publishing books and articles. He was fascinated by San Francisco saloons, brothels, and their bar tokens in the era of a dance called the turkey trot.
His greatest regret was the transition of his unique community from blue collar to white collar.
"Once a raging mixture of all incomes, Bernal Heights is more and more for the affluent, professional and sedate," he wrote in his spiral-bound Bernal Hill Memoir. (A copy is available at the Bernal Heights Branch Library.) In a neighborhood blog, he adds, "It's hard seeing my friends leave when the big bucks people come in and simply elbow them out of the way just because they can."
* * *
Jerry was born in Spokane on May 10, 1933, at the nadir of the Great Depression. His father, Robert F. Schimmel (1909-1990), a native of Porterville, worked as a railroad traffic manager or rate clerk in Spokane, Vallejo, Pittsburgh, and other stops. His mother, the former Geane Winifred Ziemer (1915-1995), born in San Francisco, would later prefer Jean or Gene. After a succession of jobs, she would become a portrait photographer and artist.
Jerry was 9 when his parents split up. Bob Schimmel moved in 1943 to Pittsburgh, Pa., home of his new wife, Rose Marie Lesjak. Gene moved from San Francisco's Mission District to Sausalito and lived a life of independence. Jerry reveled in a boyhood spent among the wharfs and the byways of the former fishing village being transformed by World War II. In the north Sausalito yards of Bechtel's enormous pop-up Marinship, his gorgeous mom painted boilers in Liberty cargo ships. She bought a creaky old house on South Street above Sausalito's scenic Shelter Cove. She changed her name to Perry.
Jerry lettered in swimming at Tamalpais Union High School in neighboring Mill Valley, but most of his spare time went to leadership roles in after-school programs and camps of the YMCA and the Explorer Boy Scouts.
He snuck into Hambone Kelly's club in El Cerrito to listen to Lu Watters's Yerba Buena Jazz Band. Jerry was hooked for life. With an old plectrum banjo, he taught himself the difficult chord inversions of solo pieces like "The World Is Waiting for the Sunrise." He did the same with his piano, perfecting "The Maple Leaf Rag," "Solace," and other Scott Joplin masterpieces. He never lacked invitations to perform at parties and fund-raisers, especially after he enrolled at San Francisco State College (then uptown at Laguna and Market streets).
Tito Patri, a landscape architect and another banjo-playing alumnus of Tam's Class of 1951, recalled fun times for pickup jams.
"In the Fifties Jerry used to join me and almost anyone we knew who played an instrument of some kind for jazz parties at my father's art school for adults in Jackson Square (the Patri School of Art Fundamentals)," he wrote.
"The 'performance' was more like undulating waves of musical cacophony."

* * *
Jerry left for Berkeley to earn a master's degree in social work at the University of California.
He took his banjo in 1955 to a folk music party. There he met Nancy Reynolds, a Cal undergraduate in psychology and literature. She played guitar. She was, and is, a singer with talent and tenderness. With Nancy was her mother, Malvina Reynolds, whose songwriting career would win worldwide success with "Little Boxes" (1959).
Married in 1957, Jerry and Nancy saved up for a six-month journey in 1959 from Machu Picchu to Argentina and Brazil and points between. Nancy sang "Careless Love" for exiled German pacifists in Paraguay. Jerry took his banjo to jam with charango-strumming Peruvians.
Nancy Schimmel: "I think Jerry's ability to make connections and to size people up made him a good social worker as well."
In addition to his MSW, he was certified as a clinical social worker in a variegated career that included child welfare services, adoptions, and a stint in the Psychiatric Clinic of the Juvenile Court. He worked as a community organizer, as a staffer for the Council on Mental Retardation, and as a caseworker for the Red Cross.
Nancy and Jerry bought their little house atop Bernal Hill. Then he took a job in 1967 as director of the small Precita Center.
Jerry was all too familiar with drastic change in communities once valued for quaintness, charm, and creativity. He grew up in Sausalito, then noted for shipyard workers, fishermen, bohemian poets, and starving artists. His home town morphed over the years into (in his words) an expensive haven for flight attendants and newly divorced lawyers. He later spent five years in an apartment on then-affordable Potrero Hill with a reputation for Marxists, Slavic immigrants, and starving artists. Now Potrero's reconditioned Victorians fetch $2 million, eliciting (in his words) obligatory conversations about missed real estate opportunities.
Not on the Hill. "No one we knew talked about Bernal Heights or mentioned the spectacular views from the boulevard," he writes in his Bernal Hill Memoir. "The posted price of the house and the next-door lot downhill came to a low five figures, an amount inconceivable in today's market."
Back then, working-class Irish, German, and Italian families dominated the social and cultural life of the mini-neighborhoods that circle Bernal Hill. The old-timers have now been largely supplanted by white-collar workers and professionals of all ethnicities.
Bernal Heights wasn't always a cloistered village of well-paid Zoom introverts. One day on Gates Street, Jerry heard a young woman "screaming profanities" as she clobbered a parked car and smashed its windshield with a 2x4. And here's Jerry on a neighbor's hobby back then: "Besides being a middle-class corporate man, he organized witch covens on Banks Street… There they were, chanting in a circle, chanting the unknowable to sundry spirits and forest nymphs, all good middle-class leftovers from the late 1960s."
Discouraged by bureaucracy, ineffective leadership, and in-fighting among neighborhood groups, Jerry lasted four years at the Precita Center. Next came a gig researching and writing a comprehensive two-volume report on mental health issues in Union City.
"Nancy and I divorced in 1975," he said in his Memoir. "I have chosen not to remarry and retired from Social Work in the early 1980s after all the budget cuts, now taking my ease."
He turned his attention to his community.
"Jerry is Bernal Heights," writes librarian Vicky Walker. "And Bernal Heights is Jerry. That's it. Inextricably linked forever."

* * *
Jerry's lifelong interest in coin collecting shifted in retirement into a parallel pursuit, the buying and selling of tokens. He self-published a dozen books or booklets for collectors. He specialized in the non-coins dispensed to clients in the brothels and honky-tonks in the era of old-time jazz.
Whereas a coin seldom needs much history, Jerry learned that a good story will triple the value of a humble token. A prime example: "The Parisian Mansion and Frisco's forgotten resorts of ill-repute," published in the San Francisco Examiner on December 26, 1994.
* * *
Until the 1970s the grassy scalp of Bernal Hill was managed grudgingly by the city's Department of Public Works. Jerry called it "a large, open wasteland." "In the wee hours," he wrote, it became a lover's lane, party locale, unauthorized trash dump, and a "magnet for the unpleasant."
He spent a year as president of the Bernal Heights Association, "essentially a white, middle-class homeowner booster," he wrote, with a twist – a mission to support services for kids and the elderly.
They couldn't save Bernal Heights from the forces of gentrification. But they could try to save the top of what geologists call "the folded hill." Jerry teamed up with local activists Miriam "Mimi" Mueller, Beverly Anderson, Barbara and Roland Pitschel and many others to pressure politicians to transfer the title of Bernal Hill in 1973 to the Recreation and Park Department.
Nearly fifty years later, the Rec-Park website proudly celebrates the former wasteland: "Visitors hike around the hill's peaceful summit to escape from the complexities of urban life. As one of the few remaining natural refuges in San Francisco, Bernal Hill is a special place for the city's human and wildlife inhabitants."
The fights (and endless meetings) go unremembered by today's hikers and dog lovers. They flock in their dozens every day to the steep, grassy upland of purple needlegrass, red-tailed hawks (and 40 more bird species), an occasional coyote, and 360-degree views from the 475-foot ridge of chert and dirt.
When city officials needed a name for their new peaceful summit, Jerry voted for the first choice of the locals, "Nanny Goat Park," honoring the hill's bucolic history. Real estate brokers were appalled. Without a word, unsmiling Rec-Park poobahs came up with "Bernal Heights Park."
"You can't win them all," Jerry was known to say, "even when you're not trying."
* * *
Family: Jerry's relatives include Donna Jean Dion, his half sister, of Colfax, CA; her husband, James R. Dion; their children, Timothy Dion of Grass Valley, and Robert, Nickolas and Wendy Dion, of Colfax, and fifteen grandchildren. (Three of the close family's homes went up in flames when the River Fire hit the woodsy community on Aug. 4. Their fire insurance had been canceled a few weeks before without notification to the family.) Other kin: Roberta Mueller, half sister, in Centennial, CO; Michael Schimmel, half brother, in Fresno, CA; and Sally Soto, a cousin, in Windsor, CA.
A memorial service will be planned.
Online: Go to www.jerryschimmel.com for reminiscences by Tito Patri and Nancy Schimmel, a dream fantasy by Jerry, a sampling of token-inspired history articles for the Papers of the Pacific Coast Numismatic Society, and a republication of "Ribeltad Vorden."

Published by San Francisco Chronicle from Sep. 29 to Oct. 3, 2021.

Saturday, October 2, 2021

1 Memories of Jerry: Tito Patri


High school:  Jerry’s jalopy was, I think about a 1935 Hudson or Studebaker, without working windshield wipers.  It used to rain back then. We looped a string out through the driver’s open window. We tied it to the ailing wiper blades, then through the passenger’s window (mine) and tied it to the end near the steering wheel.  While Jerry drove,  I pushed and pulled the string back and forth. We operated the first manual windshield wipers known to Marin County. We would be wet, but we would get there.

Marriage: We joined him in Mill Valley for his wedding in 1957 to Nancy Reynolds, daughter of Malvina Reynolds of “Little Boxes” fame.

Jazz:  He played banjo with Earl Sheelar’s (trad) jazz band in Berkeley and yes, piano with Ted Shafer’s Merry Maker’s Jazz Band in a pizza joint in San Pablo. It was unique because the place had a hardwood dance floor, and many an octogenarian could be seen gliding across the oak on Saturday nights.



   In the Fifties Jerry used to join me and almost anyone we knew who played an instrument of some kind for jazz parties at my father’s art school for adults in Jackson Square (the Patri School of Art Fundamentals). The "performance” was more like undulating waves of musical cacophony. 

   He would also join me and my wife Bobby at the Renaissance Faire in Marin County.  We dressed in period costumes and would enjoy spontaneous musical groups trying to sound ancient. It must have been quite something to see, the two of us in baggy pantaloons and leather vests.  I seem to remember, although Bobby disagrees, thay we slung our banjos around our necks hoping perhaps, to be asked to join in.

  I joined him once or twice (two banjos) in the Sixties at the Upper Grant Street Fair (one of the first).  He would also invite me at times to be part of a small group (three or four of us – piano, banjo, soprano sax (and maybe string bass) to play at fund raisers or other events for leftish or peace groups and causes.  Once we drove all the way to San Luis Obispo.  The performance was forgettable, but the drive was not. Our sax player, who was blind in one eye, drove the whole harrowing several hundred miles.

 In recent years Jerry would to join Bobby and me for dinner on Christmas Eve. With my stepbrother from DC and his English wife, we would bemoan the state of the world and in particular the country under Trump.   Then without the aid of spirits (none of us were drinking by then), and even though devoid of any trace of religiosity, we, some with a few tears of longing for a happier past, would listen in silence to the stirring voice of Luciano Pavarotti singing  Antonio Stradella’s 18th Century gem Pietá Signore. We always looked forward to that. Jerry too would have done so, I’m certain, a few weeks from now.

  Tito Patri, landscape architect in San Francisco, grew up in Sausalito and, like Jerry, attended Tamalpais Union High School in Mill Valley. The Class of 1951, remarkably, also included the late ragtime pianist Pete Clute and tuba player-trombonist Bill Carroll, gifted musicians who recorded and performed for many years with the Turk Murphy Jazz Band.

Tito Patri

San Francisco

2021

2 Memories of Jerry: Nancy Schimmel


  

   I remember hearing the windshield wiper story, and also one about Jerry and Lynn making an entrance to a costume party. Jerry, wearing a top hat, sat piggyback on Lynn, who wore overalls: Capital Riding on the Back of Labor.
   It makes me think of the memorable 40th birthday party Jerry’s mother threw for him at her house. It was to be a surprise party. Most of the guests were late, so the party itself wasn’t a surprise, but Gene had gotten in touch with old friends Jerry hadn’t seen in years. Each entrance was a surprise. Maybe Jerry got his love of hosting parties from his mother.
 
   I met Jerry in 1956 at a folksong evening organized by his ex-girlfriend, whose father was a friend of my parents. She had invited my mother, who brought me along. Jerry was more interested in jazz than folk music, but he was there hoping to find a new girlfriend, and he did.
  He was in social work grad school. We went out for a semester, then he went to a village in Mexico to work for the summer in an American Friends Service Committee work camp. We got married in January and graduated in June of 1957.
   We worked and saved our money and went to South America for five months in 1959 with a couple Jerry had met in grad school. Otto was a botanist and a refugee from Peron’s Argentina. With Peron out, he wanted to show his American wife his homeland. We set off together and travelled through Peru, Bolivia and Argentina by bus and train, meeting Otto’s friends along the way.   
  Jerry brought his banjo, and struck up conversations with people everywhere — he was good at that — so when we left our friends in Buenos Aires and travelled on through Paraguay, Brazil and Trinidad, we still made connections with the local folks. 
 
I think Jerry’s ability to make connections and to size people up made him a good social worker as well. He worked in the adoptions unit for Sacramento County, then worked with kids in the Juvenile Hall and on probation in San Francisco. We moved to Potrero Hill in 1960, got involved in the peace movement, and helped start a little peace center there, the Olive Branch. We were helping organize peace marches—again with the American Friends Service Committee—and Jerry got a little band together to play music along the way and at fund-raising parties, and another group to lead singing at rallies. In 1963, he and some friends hiked to the top of Mt. Whitney. I would have gone, but Women for Peace sent me to the March on Washington for Jobs and Freedom.
 
Jerry’s last social work job was running a small neighborhood house on the north side of Bernal Heights. We bought our first house on the south side, and got involved with the neighborhood association there. We parted amicably in 1974. Jerry kept the house, got interested in neighborhood history, and was living in that house until his last illness.
 
Former children’s librarian Nancy Schimmel is a singer, songwriter, and storyteller (Just Enough To Make a Story, Sisters Choice Press). She is working on a biography of her late mother, Malvina Reynolds, folk-song composer of “Turn Around” and “Little Boxes.”
 
Berkeley
2021


3 Jerry's Writings: "Dream"

 

 I am trying to think what is going on. This is a dream, obviously. I am somewhere between fifty and sixty years old, although I am not sure. I wear my casual 21st century jeans, cap and old jacket.

  We are in San Francisco, or what is to become San Francisco, on a patch of ground where Market Street will be surveyed a few years later by Jasper O’Farrell. (It will be named for a street in Philadelphia.) I am here to consider investing in this area and perhaps to move here permanently. I have been collecting cowhides from nearby ranchos. I will make arrangements, perhaps with one of the whalers anchored in the Bay, to carry the hides and myself back home. Back east I will load up with supplies and barrels of whiskey. Then I will open a general supply store here. So far there are few Anglo residents. No one has yet found gold.

  No other buildings are visible. The countryside is clustered with buckbrush, toyons, oaks, and bay trees. I can see in the distance the bare hill where I lived, or will live, quite a long hike south over sand hills and tidal flats.

  A track on one side of our structure leads east toward the cove that will be named Yerba Buena. I set out inland to Mission Dolores, an hour’s walk on a dirt path to the west.  I recall that this is a time of cougars and bears, so being outside is not necessarily a safe thing. The weather was intermittently overcast, sunny and windy, so I guess it could be June or July.  The air temperature was something 60 degrees Fahrenheit. I know this because I am both from here and future.

  The Mission area is distressingly squalid. A few Indian workers laconically till a few vegetable plots. They look away and do not make eye contact. They are without shirts, and the scars on their backs are horrifying. The friars are slovenly, overweight, unshaven and generally reticent. The buildings are rundown. I inquire in Spanish about conditions, availability of supplies, and the like, although I know the answers. I have a few silver reales in my pocket. I leave the coins with the padres.

    I decide to hike to the Presidio, probably half a day’s walk north.  By evening I reach the Golden Gate. I see a few adobe buildings, all in appalling condition. One or two soldiers look up, then resume their card game. I look north across the strait to the future Marin County. No bridge, no lighthouse, no Fort Point.

  A billow of fog rolls in. Everything is obscured. I turn around. There is the City. I wait for Muni. The No. 28-19th Ave. takes me to the No. 22-Fillmore, which connects to No. 24-Divisadero. Then I am back at Mission and 24th streets with weary commuters, obnoxious teenagers, evangelical Christians, sidewalk alcoholics, and tired women shoppers herding small children. No cowhides. The dream is over.

San Francisco

 

4 Lynn's Musings: Cactus Jack and Harry Partch


Lynn Ludlow (left) and Jerry at Thanksgiving 2019.



By Lynn Ludlow

 

  Jerry Schimmel put his schoolbooks aside to tune in every afternoon to “Cactus Jack.”  His real name was Cliff Johnson. He spun country and western tunes as host of a KLX radio show from Oakland in the 1940s. Well after his death, a friend confided that the disc jockey loathed what he called “hillbilly” music. He loved old jazz.

  Cactus Jack might follow the Oklahoma Sweethearts (“Don’t Steal Daddy’s Medals”) by spinning “Irish Black Bottom” by the Yerba Buena Jazz Band in the two-beat rhythm of the New Orleans Jazz Revival. The sponsor, Thirtieth and San Pablo Furniture Warehouse, may not have noticed. Jerry did. He was hooked for life.

 As his friend Tito reports, Jerry played piano for one band, banjo for another, but he took me and others to hear Kid Ory, Muggsy Spanier, and Meade Lux Lewis at the Club Hangover, Tin Angel, Sail ‘N, Italian Village, William Tell Hotel, Earthquake McGoon’s and all the other Frisco clubs where Turk Murphy’s band played “1919 Rag” and “Cakewalking Babies.”

 Turk tuck away his trombone to sing “Ace in the Hole” with gravelly nostalgia for the lost world of the Barbary Coast and its urban neighbor, Chinatown. “This town is full of guys,” he began, “who think they’re mighty wise…”  

   Between numbers, Jerry would praise the era’s talented white musicians (Lu Watters, Turk Murphy, Bob Helm, Wally Rose, Claire Austin, Pete Clute). They were curators, as he put it, for the musical of the Black jazz geniuses of the early 20th century (King Oliver, Jelly Roll Morton, Bessie Smith, Louis Armstrong, and so many more).

    Old-time jazz lost its ace in the hole with the death of Turk Murphy in 1987. No more clubs in Frisco. No more regular gigs. Cactus Jack is long gone. Jerry said he was still playing his jazz CDs, but in recent years he preferred the kolos and tamburicas of Balkan music.

   

* * *

 

 

  Harry Partch recognized Jerry’s musical gifts. The experimental composer built his own musical instruments to fit his 43-tones-to-the-octave theories of  “just intonation.”

  At his studios in the old Marinship offices in Sausalito, Partch recruited Jerry to play the harp-like Kithara for performances and LP recordings by the Gate 5 Ensemble of  “Ring Around the Moon” and “Castor and Pollux.” (I played the “Surrogate Kithara.”)

  Jerry later played an adapted guitar in Partch’s memorable outdoors adaptation of Sophocles’s Oedipus.(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2jHtfk2ljM)

    Partch soon left for three years as composer-in-residence at the University of Illinois in Champaign-Urbana. Jerry left for graduate school in Berkeley.

 

* * *

Found in Jerry’s files:

  “Linguistics erupted during the building of a city staircase on the path next to my home on Bernal Heights. A hodgepodge of babble erupted among the workmen (Mexican and Salvadoran), foremen (Dublin), city engineers (Cantonese) and architects (shouters in English).

  “Those times in my driveway were always real macho, everybody in boots and jeans, some in hard hats and orange safety vests, waving drawings in the air when the wind wasn't blowing sheets of paper halfway down the boulevard.  I usually wore matching jeans and boots as well, when I wasn't in pajamas, so I fit in just fine.

  “Conversations, actually semi-arguments, sometimes whole arguments, were punctuated with expletives, the “f” word being the most popular.

  “It was always the f...... post, dig a f...... trench, pour the f...... cement or especially when someone did not follow the drawings and had totally f..... up.

    “The only woman on the site was slim, young and Asian. After several mornings of expletives from the international brigade, I asked how she handled the blue language.  

   “After a pause, she replied calmly with unaccented English, “It makes my day.”

 

* * *

  Folk music began to bloom in the late 1950s.

   “The songs we sang were taken from Woody Guthrie, Pete Seeger, Lead Belly and the Weavers,” Jerry would write. “We came out of the political atmosphere of left-liberal Berkeley and San Francisco Bay Area and were concerned about civil rights, civil liberties, social justice, and the antiwar movement.”

 

* * *

 Rare is the token connoisseur who gets away from the catalogues, online auctions, and price guides. But when Jerry began to write his prize-winning “Chinatown Tales” series, his need for context took him to the streets. Written for The Papers of the Pacific Coast Numismatic Society, the tales include “Stories & Brass Checks from Ross Alley and Old Chinatown,” “Grant Avenue and Dupont Street,” “Waverly Place and Stockton Street,” and “La Chinesca” (the Chinese community in Mexicali).

       In Jerry’s free tours of the historic community hemmed in by skyscrapers, he always escorted his guests to a walkway of lingering death.

       From the narrow sidewalk on Jackson Street, he would walk uncomfortably between dingy brick walls. Too narrow for an alley, the no-exit passageway held garbage cans, padlocked doorways, and a history of shame. Too ill or wasted to service their johns or further enrich their pimps, kidnapped sex slaves were given rice and water and dropped off in Chinatown’s dead ends.

  “This,” Jerry said, “is where they came to die.”

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

5 Jerry's Writings: Ribeltad Vorden!


 By Jerry Schimmel


 THE RIBELTAD was the place to go in Bernal Heights during the late 1960s and early 1970s.
  Peter Cancilla was the latest heir to Cancilla’s Grocery, which he managed  at the corner of Bessie and Folsom streets (3216 Folsom St.) Around 1968 he acquired the early 20th century building across Folsom at 300 Precita Ave. It housed a moribund pinball machine company on the ground floor with apartments upstairs. He converted the pinball shop into a bar with a curious name.
   The Colombian motto is Libertad y Orden (Liberty and Order). Somehow the Japanese seamstress came up with "Ribeltad Vorden."
   The garbled phrase inspired, probably in a mindwarp session, the name of the new watering hole.  (Doyle McGowan, after tracking it down through a circuitous trail of ownerships, now has the framed banner on his apartment wall.)

PETER was a good Catholic boy who got caught in San Francisco’s Summer of Love movement. From what I heard, he learned to smoke pot and probably even dropped a few tabs of acid. (This part of the story is vehemently denied by his daughter.)
    By 1970 Peter and his wife had separated. His life was falling apart. It didn’t take long before the bar’s crowd got rough, and a biker gang dominated the clientele. As the story goes, one day there was a hell of a fist fight. One of the toughs was tossed through a plate glass window. After that the police began making regular stops.
     Peter sold out to Doyle in 1971.

DOYLE McGOWAN had a wild youth in L.A. resulting in time behind bars, a fact of which he is not proud. By the time we knew him, he was established locally in neighborhood real estate and was becoming involved with the Bernal Heights Association.
    My recollection is he was well-known and admired by everyone in the BHA, though Doyle thinks I’m exaggerating. For sure, some of his former tenants would disagree. He wants to be sure I’m clear on that point. When the association sponsored the hilltop park-naming party in 1973, Doyle generously opened the Ribeltad for its gathering. He also let photographer Mark Green run the Nanny Goat Hill Gallery rent-free in a tiny one room building behind the the bar (3205 Folsom St.) Doyle sold out in 1974.
  As Doyle will readily admit, he bought a truckload of problems. Drugs were being sold surreptitiously and sometimes openly. (I remember being approached in the men’s room by a kid offering a small baggie of unidentified green somethings.) The cops were eyeing Doyle because of his past. Doyle says when I was BHA president, I went downtown and spoke up for him at a court hearing of some kind, though I don’t remember it.
    However, as he told me, there are certain perks to being a saloonkeeper. He quickly learned it was a position that carries a kind of social magnetism. One customer out of the blue brought Doyle a gift of a rug and large pillows to fill his tiny rooms above the bar, just for the hell of it, no strings attached. A bigger surprise was a few nights later when the same fellow came upstairs arm-in-arm with two good-looking women, one a dancer who proceeded to perform on the spot. The other seduced him for the rest of the night. Not a bad life, Doyle.

A FEW of Doyle’s friends could be worse than enemies. He came to the Ribeltad one evening with a new lady intent on impressing her with his proprietorship of a popular and colorful bar. In the middle of a round of introductions, another compatriot, Roberto Gonzales, set off a string of firecrackers in the crowded room just behind Doyle and his escort - to the accompaniment of ribald laughter. Doyle didn’t say what happened next.

BOB GETTLE was bartender and manager for the RV. One of Bob’s peccadilloes was flirting with women visitors as customers furiously gesticulated at empty glasses. Gettle was outside one night, talking to his pals. Doyle was standing inside at the cash register when he noticed a wisp of plaster dust puff out of the opposite wall. Afterward he found a small hole he hadn’t seen before. He thought it was just the old structure deteriorating in its peculiar way, slowly falling apart. It turned out to be a bullet hole. Gettle had been examining a gun when it went off. The slug plowed through the building’s side, luckily without hitting anyone.

ONE OF DOYLE'S biggest headaches was Lorraine Ammenti, who had just separated from her husband, Armando. Lorraine and Armando were well-known in Bernal Heights not only for their constructive activism and generosity but also for blazing tempers and monumental public quarrels. Lorraine was an especially attractive woman with an outwardly pleasant, very intelligent and seductive manner (especially with men). She cornered me a couple of times away from my wife. Having witnessed her donnybrooks with Armando, I kept my distance.
  When Doyle came to the RV, Lorraine was already living on the second floor right over the bar with three and sometimes four German shepherd dogs, an inheritance from Cancilla. She ran Dog Patrol, a rental canine security service. I remember that the beasts used to defecate on the roof of 3205 Folsom St. next door.. She would let them out the back door onto the back stairs, where they had easy access to the top of the adjoining building. 
     The RV often had loud evening entertainment, making sleep difficult for Lorraine. Her method of handling the noise was to go out the back and downstairs to the main electrical box and switch off the power to the bar, lights, sound, everything. Then she would perch on the steps with her dogs and a shotgun and wait for someone to come turn them back on.

LORRAINE was tight with a group of local cops who would come sit at the RV in plain clothes, making it a point to have handcuffs dangle from their belts in full view of the patrons. This made a few habitués suddenly remember overdue appointments, preferably across town. It was another way of harassing Doyle and his bartender, he felt. He was already paranoid enough with uniformed officers dropping by to see if there were any drug dealers around.
   On one occasion Lorraine bashed Gettle over the head with a glass beer pitcher, not seriously enough to get him to the emergency room, but enough for a good headache. It seems that she had been repeatedly demanding part or all of Gettle’s bar manager job from Gettle and not getting it. To complicate matters the two had once been an item. She must have known about Gettle’s courtesies to the women customers – and Gettle should have known better than to dally about with Lorraine nearby. So her reasons for denting his cranium were probably double-barreled.
    At first Gettle didn’t want to file assault charges against Lorraine, but Doyle convinced him that this was the chance to get her out of the building. Doyle had been longing to have her go because of the dogs and general nuisance. So Bob told her if she didn’t leave 302 Precita, he would file charges. It was her choice, he said.
    The day she moved Armando was sitting at the bar. Looking up, he saw water coming through the ceiling.  Doyle found rags had stopped up the sinks and bathtub, and the taps were open.

NOT LONG after the water episode, Doyle gave up the Ribeltad and its can of worms.  Peter, Bob and Lorraine have gone to join the invisible choir. The Ribeltad Vorden became the Taste of Honey for awhile, then a succession of restaurants. 
   Doyle morphed into a property manager, sitting on a string of Bernal Heights properties the value of which can only be guessed. Now and then you find him puttering around his buildings near Cancilla’s Market - when he isn’t out entertaining lady friends or at a Wednesday poker game. In my book Doyle proves that men with a troubled youth can turn themselves around and do better than the majority of us who have never been arrested. And his daughter has graduated from Colgate University and applied for graduate school. Not many of us could beat what he’s done against odds like that. Liberty and order! Ribeltad Vorden!


Jerry Schimmel, a local historian and a retired social worker, has lived for many years on Bernal Hill.

 Much more of Jerry's writing can be found at the Pacific Coast Numismatic Society's website: pcns.org


6 Jerry's Writings: When They Danced the Turkey Trot at the So Different

 

By Jerry F. Schimmel

 

 TWO BLOCKS EAST of the Presidio, near the Lombard Street Main Gate, the swinging doors of Headquarters, 24th Infantry, saluted the neighbors of peaceful Cow Hollow. The name suggests a command post, although the establishment's value to the Army was best argued over several foaming glasses.

  The "HQ" was one of a half-dozen unruly premises called "Presidio saloons." But it's been forgotten even during Black History Month despite its role as the first of the notable honky tonks owned by two enterprising men who would become major players in the Barbary Coast in the early years of the century.

 Old maps show the bar at 2700 Greenwich St. on the northwest corner of Broderick Street. No directory ever listed the Headquarters, but it must have opened in 1898 when large numbers of troops moved through town en route to the Philippines Insurrection.

  Lew Purcell and Sam King, men from Iowa, tired of lugging suitcases. Born during the Civil War, their career opportunities as Black men led them to jobs as Pullman car porters, or so the story goes. By the mid-1890s, and in their 30s, they had to make something happen or stay forever on the Chicago run.

  Frisco beckoned. Every skin color, physiognomy, language, accent and nationality mixed here. How you looked on the street did not much matter if you had money. Of course, it sounds easier than it must have been. Bleak laws limited the civil rights of anyone not white, and The City's turn-of-the-century ambivalence over Chinatown made weekly news copy.

   Even so, San Francisco was not the Midwest or South. From somewhere, the two got money together and opened the Headquarters, their first 24-hour adult amusement palace. Saloon men knew that soldiers had heavy pockets. Black and white troops were indistinguishable in two respects. Both were suckers for cheap liquor and Frisco dance hall girls.

  The Army's 24th Infantry Regiment, and later the 25th, were units of Black enlisted men, ready-made starter markets for the partners' brand of the local stock-in-trade.

  All that survives from the once-bustling saloon are brass tokens, one for 10 cents, the other for 25 cents. The smaller bought a drink or the spin of a slot machine; the larger, a dance. Frisco saloonkeepers who issued two tokens usually employed women called "Percentage Girls." The title was applied regardless of age.

  Every time a drink was sold or a dance was stepped, the woman got a token. At the end of a night, her pieces of stamped metal were redeemed for cash. The fate of the HQ isn't clear, but by 1899, the partners had moved downtown to open the Arcadia Club at 23 Stockton St. just off Market Street. By the late '90s, downtown was dominated by family-oriented merchants and corporation leaders uncomfortable with our city's  pastimes.

  The heat was on to close white-owned Market Street dives like the Cafe Royal, Midway Plaisance and Thalia Cafe. The Maiden Lane brothels had been closed in 1892, although informal enterprises carried on there for years.

   In 1900, the partners relocated to 316 Grant Ave. near Harlan Place, a smaller version of Maiden Lane. However, by 1901, even lower Grant Avenue was too close. They moved into 520 Pacific St. on the Barbary Coast. Business took off.

  Blacks have been part of San Francisco since the first whalers jumped ship in the 1840s, but numbers were small. They lived mainly near the north waterfront and on the Barbary Coast, that is, Frisco's Old Town. The Berkeley and Oakland black communities grew up after the railroads came. By the 1890s, "colored" Odd Fellows Lodges were holding statewide conventions in Sacramento with representatives from all major California cities, including San Francisco.

 

SEVERAL BLACK PUBLICANS and general entrepreneurs did notably well. William A. Leidesdorff succeeded in the 1840s by selling hides, tallow and general merchandise, held several civic positions and operated the first transbay ferry with room for nine passengers. The Broadway Exchange, a hotel and saloon in the 1880s at 5 Broadway, was run by John T. Callendar, a ship's chandler and supplier to merchant sea firms. James W. Gordon provided one of the few hostelries, the Dixie Hotel, for single, working-class Black men at 750 Pacific St.

   Anything went on the Barbary Coast. As a part of The City, it was something apart. It was both seductive and repugnant to the white middle class. Forty years before sailors had christened the district after pirates who plied North African waters, Frisco's buccaneers were saloonkeepers, dance hall girls, crimps, prostitutes, junk dealers and small hotel managers who infested Pacific Street from the water up the hill to Stockton Street.

   ("Pacific Street," which had become a synonym for vice, was renamed "Pacific Avenue" in 1929 at the request of reformists.)

   Black-owned saloons and terpsichorean parlors imparted vigor to the district. In 1894, the Crow's Nest provided women of every race for customers of just as many. William Wheatley, a ship's steward, opened a saloon on Broadway in 1903. Louis Gomez, a Portuguese Black, opened the House of All Nations at 487 Pacific St. in 1912. Izzy Gomez, another Portuguese Black, ran a smaller place across the street. It was famous in the 1930s and '40s for Izzy's North Beach grappa.

   The availability of women was the attraction of "the Coast." Dance hall women or "percentage girls" were paid when men spent money on drinks. Their main sales technique was a vague promise of sex, rarely kept.

  Prostitutes worked in houses of varying quality, their services and income strictly controlled by the madams. The dance saloons and brothels were mostly on the east side of town. Pricey bordellos were situated near Union Square.  

  By late 1903, the partnership between Purcell and King had soured. Purcell stayed at 520 Pacific St., and King moved to 498 Pacific St. King's new place became the Needmore.

  The April 1906 earthquake and fire wiped out both clubs. Neither stayed down. King had a new permit by July and reopened the second Needmore at 468 Pacific St. Purcell came back with the old street number.

   The So Different came to be "Purcell's." Upstairs at 520, the 1910 Census counted seven young women with occupations listed as "waitress" and "entertainer." A smaller unit of females was listed on King's second floor.

   Pioneer Black jazzmen from New Orleans sat in after hours at the So Different when they booked into Frisco. St. Louis ragtime composer Tom Turpin, a contemporary and acquaintance of Scott Joplin, warmed the piano bench at Purcell's in late 1906. Jelly Roll Morton came to town in 1913; King Oliver in 1923.

 

  DANCES LIKE THE Turkey Trot, Texas Tommy and Bunny Hug were introduced to the beat of jazzed-up marches and ragtime. According to some, the word "jazz" first came into print here at that time.

  Celebrities dropped in on "the Coast" and at Purcell's in particular. Prima ballerina Anna Pavlova, singer Al Jolson and publisher William Randolph Hearst were counted among the saloon's customers.

  Purcell died just before Christmas in 1909 at his McGee Street home in Berkeley, the funeral supplied by his Odd Fellows Lodge. King collapsed at the Need-more two weeks later in January 1910, DOA at Central Emergency Hospital. Both were said to be victims of saloonkeeper's syndrome – kidney failure from too much drink.

  Rosa Purcell kept shop until 1912, when she sold out to Lester Mapp, a sailor from Barbados and bartender for Purcell. Mapp then bought the Needmore from Lydia King and eventually owned a half dozen spots in the district. In the 1920s and '30s, he became known as an impresario for black community events throughout the Bay Area.

   Nowadays, the partners' buildings make up part of the Jackson Square Historic District. Purcell's brick-walled dive stands unchanged and bears the address 550 Pacific Ave. Sue Monser's International Contract Furnishings takes up the ground floor dance hall.

   Sam King's Needmore has become law offices, the structure gutted and remodeled several times over.

  In what was Gordon's Dixie Hotel at 750 Pacific St., a Chinatown general store occupies the former saloon; upstairs, a low-budget rooming house makes space for urban survivors.

  Purcell's name was revived in 1917 for a dance hall at Jackson Street and Columbus Avenue. During the short-lived Barbary Coast Revival of 1934, the name blazed in neon for a few short weeks over what is now Phil and Mona Malik's office furnishings store at 553 Pacific Ave.      

  Today, "Purcell's" can be seen on one wall of the Evergreen Hotel, a square, creaky building at the northwest corner of Columbus Avenue and Broadway. A large mural coils around the double-hung windows. The mural shows jazz musicians and Barbary Coast dance hall signs with names like Spider Kelly, The Thalia and The Bear. Each has its own story.

 

San Francisco Examiner

Feb. 24, 1995

7 Jerry's Writings: Mayhem at an Elko Brothel


By Jerry F. Schimmel

Elko, Feb. 22 . - A feud in the restricted district came to a disastrous end last night when Maxine La Fond, proprietor of the Classy Inn, shot Ollie Day, proprietor of the Day House, wounding her seriously. When placed under arrest the La Fond woman appeared to be in a stupor and was unable to make any statement.

The woman who was shot, is said to have a fair chance for recovery. It is said the women have been enemies for some time. The shooting occurred about three o’clock this morning. Witnesses say that the La Fond woman came into the Day House and began shooting without warning. She fired four shots, three of which took effect.

  – Reno Gazette-Journal, Reno, Nevada, February 23 1927

 

  Ollie had to be in serious condition after three rounds at point blank range. Lost over the years are the followup stories, if any, covering Ollie’s condition or action by law enforcement. At the time Ollie was 46 and Maxine 32. Well before the 1930 Census, both had returned to their houses, Ollie with a complement of five harlots and Maxine with four.

  Census data 1910 through 1930 show that Elko was lively with brothels. In 1910 Ollie Day’s, Jean Field’s and Annie Handlon’s were listed; in 1920 Ollie Day and Olive Wright; and by 1930 Ollie Day, Maxine La Fond, Gladys Collier, Maud Rogers and Irene Walker. No doubt there were others. Today Elko has four legal bagnios: The Desert Rose, Inez’s D&D (dancing and diddling), Mona’s Ranch and Sue’s Fantasy Club, all described on the internet.

  Few towns are as isolated as Elko. Nearly mile high it lies about 250 miles from Boise, Reno, and Salt Lake and more than 400 from Las Vegas. The town’s current population is about 20,000, but in Ollie’s time it was more like 3,000. The city is the seat of sparsely inhabited Elko County, which covers a territory of sagebrush flats and jagged snow-capped peaks in the northeast corner of the state. Rhode Island, Delaware and Connecticut would easily fit into Elko county with space leftover for Hawaii.

  With the arrival of white men in the decades after the Civil War, mining emerged as the county’s chief occupation. Their task was the grueling and often dangerous work of extracting gold, silver, copper, lead and zinc from the county's rugged territory. Nearby settlements acquired names like Bullion, Gold Creek and Midas. After a week of pickaxes and stubborn ore carts, most of the miners could descend on Elko for cheap booze, faro tables and wild female companionship.

  The companionship was already in place by Ollie’s time. The California Gold Rush of 1849 was the starter, bringing men with money from everywhere on the planet. Women from the East and South had been arriving first by ship and then by transcontinental railroad after 1869. Major gold and silver strikes in Montana, Alaska, Arizona, and Nevada since the 1860s, guaranteed that the houses would always be fully staffed.

  Women of minimal or non-existent education soon learned that you made lots more money as a hooker than a maid or washerwoman. French girls were trafficked to the West Coast by a sort of mafia. Chinese girls were essentially slaves. By and large, non-Chinese women were free to come and go, and the houses worked best with women staying for a time and then moving on, ad infinitum. A few like Ollie had a knack for running a house and getting rich.

Ollie’s, Maxine’s, Jean’s, and Maud’s Tokens


  • Aluminum 28mm beaded borders, Hoskins et al #Ec-16e.
  • O: ∙∙∙ / Ollie / -∙- / Day / ∙∙∙ / s.l. stamp co.
  • R: Good For / (orn.) / ★ 50¢ ★ / (orn.) In Trade
  • Bronze or copper 24mm beaded borders, Hoskins et al #Ec-8b
  • O: - The - / Classy / - Inn - (Maxine LaFond)
  • R: 121/2
  • Brass 24mm line border obv., plain rev. Hoskins et al #Ec-28d
  • O: (orn.) / Jean Field / (orn.)
  • R: Good For / 25¢ / In Merchandise
  • Aluminum 30.5mm beaded borders, Hoskins et. al Ec-42b.
  • O: Maud Rogers / ★ 25¢ ★ / Cents / Elko, Nevada
    R: Lucky /
  • R: Lucky / ★ 25¢ ★ / Cents / Strike

  If the number of “brass checks” issued by Elko’s madams are any indication, more brothels existed there in the early 20th Century than almost anywhere in Nevada. My token collection includes 17 bits of stamped metal dispensed by ten Elko houses between 1900 and 1940. Shown here are images of four issued by Ollie, Maxine (The Classy Inn), Jean Field and Maud Rodgers.

  Tokens were always paid for in advance by men and handed over at the point of assignation. Later they were turned in for the girls’ cut, usually 50 or 60% of face value. The term “brass checks” was commonly used in the West for a variety of tokens of different metals employed in stores, saloons, dance halls and brothels.

  What services were provided in exchange for these small pieces of metal can only be imagined.

  In the 1900 census Ollie was registered as 19 years old, born in Nevada or North Carolina. (The census listing for that year is garbled.) By 1910 she was 29 and operating a house staffed by four women and a Japanese cook. Next door another madam, Jean Field, also 29, ran a two girl shop. The typical contingent in most Western bordellos was five or six.

  Ollie had a bad year in 1916, a foretaste of the 1927 affair. As stated in the Elko Independent, she paid a midnight visit on April 17 to Elko Hot Springs not far from town, accompanied by a young woman named Lizzie and saloonkeepers Frank Turner of Elko and Frank Golden of Lovelock. At about 2 a.m. as they headed back to town in Ollie’s new Overland sedan they found the way to Bullion Road blocked by a big log. Turner, the driver, got out to move the barrier when two armed masked men in overalls scrambled down the bank from above, one in front of the Overland and the other behind.

  At gunpoint they ordered Ollie and her guests out of the car. The taller of the two took their cash and jewelry nervously waving his gun. The smaller bandit “continually clicked his pistol and vilely cursed,” according to the newspaper, “commanding him ( the taller of the two) to ‘bat Miss Day over the head.’” Then they shoved the log aside and drove off in Ollie’s car, later found abandoned a half mile north of town.

  The article went on “From remarks passed, it was evident they (the brigands) knew Miss Day, as she was most thoroughly searched and was the object of most of the abuse.” The revelers admitted “they feared that they would be commanded to jump into the big hot springs.” One of the springs was hot indeed - 150 degrees Fahrenheit!

  After a hike back to town, Ollie gave police a detailed account of her stolen items “Five solitaire diamond rings, the stones varying from two to three and one-third carats; one cluster ring of twenty diamonds; one ring set with turquoise surrounded by diamonds; a pair of earrings, each set with a one and a half carat diamond; one fleur-de-lis pin set with three diamonds; and a diamond-set gold watch.” Overlooked were two bracelets and $35. An earring was later found on the road, dropped by the highwaymen.

  Lizzie lost a turquoise and diamond ring, Golden a diamond ring and $135, and Turner, a gun he never fired with a small amount of cash. All told, the take was worth about $4500, in today’s money perhaps more than $100,000. “It is evident that the robbers knew of their plans and followed them,” the article declared.   

   “From remarks passed it is evident that they knew Miss Day.”

  The story was picked up by the Goldfield News and Weekly Tribune for July 22, 1916. Added at the end of its version, “The robbery is generally thought to have been a frame-up.” This unattributed assertion implied that Ollie may have had a hand in promoting the holdup. Maybe the reporter mistakenly confused “frame up” with “inside job.” Maybe he had a bad time at Ollie’s.

  In the same issue The News and Weekly Tribune published the following account of another horrendous event occurring five days later:


$65,000 FIRE IN ELKO

  Two big houses in the red-light district of Elko, said to have been among the finest in the west, owned by Jean Field and Ollie Day, have been completely destroyed by fire which started from a short-circuited wire. The Field place was valued at $30,000 and the Day house at $35,000. There were 20 women in the two houses and all lost their clothes, jewelry and personal belongings. Miss Field stated that she had lost over $2,500 in jewelry. One woman was badly burned while trying to rescue her dog.

  – The News and Weekly Tribune, Goldfield Nevada, July 22, 1916


  By 1920 Ollie, then 39, seems to have recouped her losses and was managing a new house of six women. Among the personnel was Maxine La Fond, age 25.

The overwhelming events in Ollie’s life leave questions that may never be answered after a century. What drove Maxine, at that moment, to stagger out of her house in a “stupor” and nearly bump off her former boss? Why did Ollie carry that seriously expensive jewelry to the hot springs? How did the holdup men find out about Ollie’s excursion - and the jewelry? Were they ever caught?

  From the Census sheets Ollie must have been “the” senior madam in Elko, a kind of “mother superior,” so to speak, with twenty years plus among Elko’s brothel women. I suspect she knew everyone else as well. Perhaps she knew too much about people, more than someone could tolerate. Maybe the gunmen had been ejected from her house for ‘drunk and disorderly.’ Ollie and Maxine likely had a falling out when Maxine worked at Day House.

  There was no listing for Ollie in the 1940 census, at least not for Nevada. A search made by my old friend Lynn Ludlow and his associate found no death notice after 1930 and nothing in Nevada newspapers. Ollie just vanished. My pal said to me:

   “I imagine she changed her name at some point, possibly through marriage or a desire to lead a normal existence. She would have been about 50 in 1930. It's not uncommon for madams and sex workers to change names, especially if they want to get out of the Life.”

  Nothing more was found about Maxine. Other women’s names found on Elko tokens include Nan Raymond, Dixie Stevens and Jessie Ward.

Author's Note

My thanks for editing and suggestions go to Lynn Ludlow, retired Op Ed Page Editor for the old San Francisco Examiner and his associate, Maureen Mroczek Morris, who liberated much Ollie and Maxine information from the internet “cloud.”